Your well ran dry during a drought, or the old submersible finally gave out after 15 years. Either way, you’re standing at the wellhead with a new pump, a coil of drop pipe, and a job to finish. Deep well pump installation is manageable without a licensed plumber-provided you follow the correct sequence, use the right materials, and respect the electrical safety steps.
On site, the deep well submersible pump job starts with one practical fact: the pump is lowered into the well casing on drop pipe, wired through a control box to a pressure switch, and connected to a pressure tank inside the building. The full process takes 4-8 hours for a single installer with basic plumbing and electrical experience.
Key Takeaways
– Submersible pumps are required for wells deeper than 25 feet; jet pumps only work above that threshold.
– Use Schedule 80 PVC or polyethylene drop pipe rated for at least 160 PSI-standard Schedule 40 can fail under sustained pump pressure.
– Set the pump a minimum of 10-20 feet above the well bottom to avoid drawing sediment, and at least 10 feet below the lowest expected water level.
– A check valve must be installed within 25 feet of the pump outlet if the pump lacks a built-in one-backflow causes water hammer and shortens pump life.
– Wire gauge must match motor amperage: a 1 HP, 230V pump typically draws 8-10 amps and requires 12 AWG wire minimum.
– Pressure tank pre-charge should be set 2 PSI below the cut-in pressure (e.g., 28 PSI for a 30/50 switch) before the system is pressurized.
Understanding the System Before You Touch a Wrench
A deep well pump system has four main components that must work together:
Component | Function | Common Failure Point |
Submersible pump | Pushes water up from depth | Motor burnout from running dry |
Drop pipe + safety rope | Supports pump in casing | Pipe joint failure under load |
Control box + pressure switch | Starts/stops pump at set PSI | Capacitor failure in control box |
Pressure tank | Maintains system pressure | Waterlogged bladder |
Understanding how each component works helps you detect problems during installation before they become failures after startup.
Tools and Materials
Tools:
– Pipe wrenches (two, for counter-torque)
– Wire stripper and multimeter
– Torque wrench for well cap bolts
– Teflon tape and pipe thread sealant
– Safety rope rated to at least 3 x pump weight
Materials:
– Submersible pump sized to your GPM demand and well depth
– Drop pipe (Schedule 80 PVC or polyethylene), one section per 10 feet of depth
– Submersible pump wire (3-conductor, direct-burial rated)
– Check valve (if not built into pump)
– Well cap with wire and pipe pass-throughs
– Pressure tank and pressure switch
– Electrical conduit for above-ground wiring runs
Gather everything before lowering the pump. A missing fitting at 200 feet of depth costs you the entire retrieval effort.
Step-by-Step Deep Well Pump Installation
Step 1: Assemble the Pump at the Surface
Attach the discharge fitting to the pump outlet. If the pump does not have a built-in check valve, thread one onto the discharge fitting now-this is easier at the surface than troubleshooting backflow later. Secure the safety rope to the pump’s lifting eye using a stainless steel clamp; this rope is your backup if the pipe joint fails.
Tape the electrical cable to the drop pipe every 10 feet using electrical tape or cable ties. This keeps the wires from tangling during lowering and prevents abrasion against the casing wall over time.
Step 2: Lower the Pump into the Well
Thread the first section of drop pipe to the pump discharge. Lower the assembly until the pipe top is near the wellhead, then attach the next section. Use two pipe wrenches on every joint-one to hold, one to tighten-to prevent unthreading under the pump’s weight.
Lower the pump to the target depth: at minimum 10 feet below the static water level and 10-20 feet above the well bottom. For a 200-foot well with a 150-foot static water level, a target depth of 160-180 feet is typical. Do not rest the pump on the bottom.
Step 3: Install the Well Cap
Once the pump is at depth, route the drop pipe, electrical cable, and safety rope through the well cap’s designated openings. Tighten the cap bolts to the manufacturer’s torque spec-usually 15-25 ft-lb. The cap seals the well against insects, surface water, and debris; a loose cap is a contamination risk.
Secure the safety rope to the well cap or a dedicated anchor point above the casing. The rope must bear the pump’s full weight independently of the pipe.
Connecting to the Home Water System
Plumbing Connections
Run the drop pipe from the well cap to the pressure tank location. Install a union fitting near the wellhead so the pump can be pulled without cutting pipe. Connect the pump outlet line to the pressure tank inlet, and the tank outlet to the building supply line.
Seal every threaded joint with Teflon tape plus pipe thread compound-tape alone is insufficient for sustained pump pressure. Check all joints visually before pressurizing.
Electrical Setup
Wire the submersible cable to the control box terminals following the manufacturer’s wiring diagram. The control box contains the start capacitor; wiring it incorrectly will burn the capacitor on first startup. Connect the control box output to the pressure switch, then to the breaker panel.
Set the pressure switch to your target range-30/50 PSI is standard for residential systems, 40/60 PSI for higher-demand applications. Confirm the breaker amperage matches the pump’s nameplate rating before energizing.
Pressure Tank Setup and System Test
Pre-charge the pressure tank bladder with a bicycle pump or air compressor before connecting water. Target: 2 PSI below cut-in pressure. For a 30/50 switch, set the tank to 28 PSI.
Startup checklist:
– [ ] All pipe joints sealed and visually inspected
– [ ] Control box wired per diagram, cover secured
– [ ] Pressure switch set to correct range
– [ ] Tank pre-charge confirmed at cut-in minus 2 PSI
– [ ] Breaker sized to pump nameplate amperage
Energize the pump and watch the pressure gauge. The system should reach cut-out pressure (50 or 60 PSI) within 2-4 minutes for a properly sized pump. If pressure climbs slowly or not at all, check for a partially closed valve, a wiring fault, or a pump set too deep relative to its rated head.
Run water at a fixture for 5 minutes and confirm the pump cycles on and off at the correct pressures. Flush the first draw to clear any sediment or pipe debris before using the water.
For well-water projects, verify casing diameter, static water level, flow demand, and cable length against Mislier submersible well pump options before ordering equipment.
Jet Pump vs. Submersible: Which One Fits Your Well?
If you’re deciding between pump types before purchasing, the depth of your well is the deciding factor:
Well Depth | Recommended Pump Type | Reason |
0-25 feet | Shallow well jet pump | Suction lift limit of jet pumps |
25-110 feet | Deep well jet pump (two-pipe) | Extended suction with ejector |
Over 110 feet | Submersible pump only | Jet pumps cannot overcome this head |
A booster pump is a separate category-it adds pressure to an existing supply line and does not replace a well pump. Do not substitute one for the other.
FAQs
Can I install a deep well pump without an electrician?
In most U.S. jurisdictions, homeowners can wire their own well pump on their own property without a licensed electrician, but a permit and inspection are often required. Contractors working on client properties typically need a licensed electrician for the 240V circuit. Check your local code before starting.
What happens if the pump is set too close to the well bottom?
The pump will draw sediment into the motor, accelerating wear and potentially clogging the check valve. Most manufacturers specify a minimum clearance of 10-20 feet above the well bottom. If your well has a history of sediment, increase that clearance to 25 feet.
How do I know if my pressure tank bladder has failed?
A waterlogged tank causes the pump to short-cycle-turning on and off every few seconds instead of every few minutes. Check the Schrader valve on the tank: if water comes out instead of air, the bladder has ruptured and the tank needs replacement.
Does the safety rope need to be a specific material?
Use stainless steel cable or polypropylene rope rated to at least 3 x the pump’s weight. Standard nylon rope degrades in water over time and should not be used. The rope is a retrieval backup, not a primary support-but it must hold if the pipe joint fails.
What GPM pump do I need for a household?
A typical single-family home needs 8-12 GPM at peak demand. Size the pump to deliver that flow rate at your total dynamic head (well depth plus friction losses). Undersizing causes the pump to run continuously; oversizing causes rapid cycling and premature pressure switch wear.
Conclusion
Deep well pump installation follows a fixed sequence: assemble at the surface, lower to the correct depth, cap the well, connect the plumbing and electrical, pre-charge the pressure tank, and test under load. The steps that most often cause failures are skipping the check valve, under-torquing the well cap, and mismatching wire gauge to motor amperage.